Feather and Fan Wrap and Scarf

Sun Rays Yoke with Diamond Eyelet Drape

Sun Rays Yoke with Strectch Ribbing Drape

Tunisian Simple Stitch Cape in Bernat Boucle

Centennial Hat Instructions

One of the members of my Yahoo Group wanted to adapt a hat she saw in a Mini Series Centennial (from the late 1970's.) One of the characters wore this hat, and her friend wanted something like it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=du5DW0nBHy4
Robert Conrad is wearing the hat... a dirty orange/red stocking type hat.

I created these generalized instructions for this hat, using Tunisian Simple stitch.

My hat is based on the average head size of 22 inches. I'm using Red Heart worsted weight yarn with a K sized hook. This is one size smaller than what I normally use with Worsted Weight yarn, but I wanted a stiffer fabric than normal... and yes, it is curling, but that will be conquered later. It took all of a 7 oz skein, and since it needed to be bigger, I’m going to suggest you have 8 oz of yarn on hand to finish this hat, if you use a K sized hook. The larger hooks won’t require as much yarn.

1. With your chosen Yarn and Hook, stitch a swatch to determine your Stitches Per Inch. A swatch is a piece of fabric worked in your chosen stitch, that is 4 inches square. Most experts recommend measuring from the middle of the swatch for a more accurate stitch count.

2. Measure the circumference of the head this hat will cover, and if you can get them to sit still long enough, measure from the bottom of the ear to the crown.

3. Multiply the number of ‘Stitches per Inch’ by the ‘Circumference of the Head’ measurement to determine the number of chains to begin with.

Row 1: Forward- Pick Up loops in ea ch. Return as you normally would.
Row 2: Forward- Tss in ea st, work last st. Return.
Repeat Row 2 until it is about half the length of the width, or the measurement from the bottom of the ear to the crown.

I’ve noticed that with most head measurements that the height of the head is a little less than half of the circumference of the head. If the head is 22 inches around, then stitch the fabric until it measure 11 inches.

IMPORTANT: Stitching the height of the body of the hat will look huge! But go ahead and stitch until it is half as tall as it is wide. For this 22" hat, it should have been 11 inches tall, not the 8" that I stitched. In my sample, the tail wasn’t long enough to reach the brim, and I had to make the brim much taller than normal.

If you do NOT want to stitch a Ribbing for the brim of the hat, continue stitching this section until it is 2-3 inches longer than ½ of the width. For my 22 inch hat, that would mean stitching the height of this section to 13-14 inches tall.

Once you have stitched the main body of the hat, you will begin decreasing on both ends AND in the middle to create the ‘stiff’ crease in the front and back. If you want a more relaxed looking hat, just decrease on the ends.

For Odd Numbered stitches- find the 5 stitches in the middle of the row, and mark them with a thread.
For Even Numbered stitches- find the 4 stitches in the middle of the row, and mark them with a thread.

For Odd Numbered stitches- Tss2tog, then Tss up to the marked stitches. Tss2Tog, Tss, Tss2tog, then Tss across the rest of the row, work last st. Return: Yo, pull through 2 loops (decrease made), then continue Return as you normally would.

Next Row: Tss2tog, then Tss up to the Center Stitches. Tss2Tog, Tss, Tss2tog, then Tss across the rest of the row, slip hk under both threads of the last st (Decrease St). Return: Yo, pull through 2 loops (decrease made), then continue Return as you normally would. Repeat this row to desired length for the top of the hat. Single Crochet in each stitch for the last row. End off.

Stitch back seam together, weave tails.

For Even Numbered stitches- Tss2tog, then Tss up to the marked stitches. Tss2Tog, Tfs (in between the stitches), Tss2tog, then Tss across the rest of the row, work last st. Return: Yo, pull through 2 loops (decrease made), then continue Return as you normally would.
Next Row: Tss2tog, then Tss up to the Center Stitches. Tss2Tog, Tss, Tss2tog, then Tss across the rest of the row, slip hk under both threads of the last st (Decrease St). Return: Yo, pull through 2 loops (decrease made), then continue Return as you normally would. Repeat this row to desired length for the top of the hat. Single Crochet in each stitch for the last row. End off.

Ribbing Section:
Turn the hat over and work from the back of the hat. Attach yarn to beginning chain of hat.
Pick up loops in ea ch st across row, Return as you normally would.
Rows 2+: Forward- (Tps, 2 Tks,) Repeat across row, working last st as you normally would. Return.
Repeat this until brim is desired height, then Single Crochet in each stitch for last row. End off.
Stitch back seam, and weave tails.

Symbols for Tunisian Crochet- Not Practical

A member of the Yahoo group I co-own, recently asked about Symbols for Tunisian Crochet. So, I started compiling my answer to her... only to realize that it would make a great Blog Post.

I have seen some publications use symbols for Tunisian Crochet, but they tend to be based on the concept that there are only 3 or 4 stitches in TC. Those who have been in our group for a while, or have my book- know better.

When I was writing my first book, I realized that with Tunisian Crochet, there needed to be a 'distinction' for the concept of Stitches, since so many stitches could be created from a few basic mechanics. My decision was to label the 'basic stitches' as Foundations, since many stitches could be created from one 'beginning step,' the Foundation of the stitch.

I've found at least 6 Basic Foundations (Knit, Purl, Reverse, Simple, Full, and Reverse/Purl).
http://chezcrochet.com/page17.html

When you start twisting threads or pulling them to the opposite side of the fabric, you add even more individual Stitches, not just stitch combos. I labeled these stitches based on the Mechanics of creating them: the Front Purl, Back Simple, Twisted Simple and Twisted Purl stitches.

There are 2 Cross Bar Foundations- in which the hook is inserted into the Cross Bar/Horizontal Bar. http://chezcrochet.com/page23.html

Also, there are 2 Post Foundations which are worked just like classic crochet Post Stitches.

Now add to that, you can Extend each Foundation with a chain stitch, know as Extended Stitches. http://chezcrochet.com/page18.html

Also, each Foundation can be worked with Double and Treble Crochet mechanics.... ALL OF WHICH, CREATE A UNIQUE, INDIVIDUAL STITCH.
http://chezcrochet.com/page12.html
http://chezcrochet.com/page13.html

I did a quick count: there are 56 unique, individual Tunisian Crochet stitches...and probably several more, since I didn't include those mechanics I believe are so difficult that most folks would never try them. These are individual stitches, not stitch combinations.

The challenge becomes: How to create a Unique Symbol for 56 Different Stitches.

Theoretically, one could create a symbol for the Basic Foundations; plus, the Post and the Cross Bar Foundations, since these are the beginning step for all Tunisian Crochet stitches. That is a total of 10 symbols for the Foundations, alone.

From there one could add an extra symbol for all of the extra mechanics. This means that there would need to be an extra symbol for each of the following: Twisting a stitch, Backwards stitches, chain extensions, AND symbols for Dc and Trc mechanics.

Now, with all these extra symbols tacked on to the Basic Foundation Symbol, it will be difficult to ascertain, from stitch to stitch, what mechanics should be used for each stitch. In the printing, these symbols could run together so easily, that it would be a nightmare to interpret.

I'm not convinced that the needleworkers in their own homes would invest the time and effort to learn all these symbols. If I thought it could be done easily, I would have done it already.

I'm sure some enterprising soul could accomplish this, but I'm not convinced the average needleworker would use them. The parameters and additional mechanics are simply too large to invest the time learning symbols, instead of actually stitching.

ARNie's Resource Library for Tunisian Crochet

I'm posting this here, until I can get it up at my website: ChezCrochet.com
It would take me at least a week to type in ALL of the books in my resource library, but for Tunisian Crochet, this is the majorty of them.

*Materials used for Encyclopedia of Tunisian Crochet

Stitch Guides and Technical Manuals:

• *"300 Crochet Stitches" London, England: Collins & Brown Ltd., 1998. (Originally published as The Harmony Guide to Crochet Stitches, Lyric Books, 1986.)
• *"220 More Crochet Stitches" London, England: Collins & Brown Ltd., 1998. (Originally published as The Harmony Guide to 100's More Crochet Stitches, Lyric Books, 1992.)
• *"Complete Guide to Needlework" Pleasantville, NY: Reader*s Digest Association, 1979.
• *"Tricot Crochet: The Complete Book" Jones, Rebecca. Berkeley, California: Lacis Publications, 2000. (Originally published as "The Complete Book of Tricot." Australia: The Kangaroo Press Pty. Ltd., 1991)
• *"Complete Stitch Directory" North, Patsy, ed. NY,NY: Crescent Books, 1982. (Originally published as *Millepunti,* Milan:Gruppo Editoriale Fabbri S.p.A., 1982.) My 'rosetta stone' for Tunisian Crochet, the book that launched my passion for this needlework.
• "Creative Crochet Handbook" Palfy, Christa. Australia, Angus & Robertson Publishers, 1976.
• "Lee Ward's Complete Library of Needlecraft" Houck, Carter, ed. Montgomery, AL, Fuller and Dees Publishing, 1985.
• "A Treasury of Crochet Patterns" Blackwell, Liz. NY, NY, Charles Scribner's Sons, 1971
• "The Encyclopedia of Knitting and Crochet Stitch Patterns" Mariano, Linda. NY, NY. Van Nostrand Reinhold Co, 1976.
• "The New Crochet Dictionary" Goldberg, Rhoda Ochser. NY,NY. Crown Publishers, Inc. 1986.
• "The Time-Life Book of Needlecraft" Donovan, Hedly, ed. NY, NY. Time-Life Books, 1976.
• "McCall's Needlework Tresury" NY,NY. Random House/McCall's publishers, 1964.
• "Good Housekeeping's Complete Book of Needlecraft" Guild, Vera P. Garden City, NY. Doubleday & Co, Inc. 1959.
• "How To Crochet" Turner, Pauline, London, UK. Collins & Brown, 2001.
• "Teach Yourself, Step by Step Guide: Tunisian Crochet" Nehring, Nancy. Little Rock, AK. Leisure Arts, 2004.

Carolyn Christmas' Easy Tunisian books:

• "101 Easy Tunisian Crochet Stitches"
• "Cable Hook Afghans"
• "Sampler Afghan"
• "Cable Hook Fashions"

Historical Reproductions

• *"Knit, Net, Crochet, and More of the Era of the Hoop" Marsh, Heidi, ed.Davenport, Iowa: Amazon Drygoods, Ltd, 1993
• "Needlecraft Practical Journal No. 61- New Crochet Stitches and Garments" The Manchester School of Embroidery, Augsta, ME, 1907 (Reproduction purchased from http://www.ivarose.com/)
• "The Dictionary of Needlework" Caufield, Sophia Frances Anne & Saward, Blanche 1882; Reprint Edition- Arno Press, Inc. USA, 1972.
• "The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework" de Dillmont, Therese, 1886; Reprint Edition- Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 1972.
• *"Victorian Crochet" Weldon & Company, et. all. NY: Dover Publications, 1974. (A compilation of crochet patterns published by Weldon's Practical Crochet magazine published from 1875 through the 1930's.)

The number of Project Pattern books that I own is huge, so I will put those in another post later on.

Tunisian Crochet: The Look of Knitting With the Ease of Crochet

Most folks know that I have researched Tunisian Crochet for close to 20 years, both in modern and historical resources. I have lamented about the lack of information, and everyone has lamented about the lack of patterns available.

It is my great pleasure to tell you about a new book: Tunisian Crochet: The Look of Knitting with the Ease of Crochet, by Sharon Hernes Silverman. This 115 page large paperback is a welcomed addition to my own Tunisian Crochet Library, and I gladly recommend it.

Employing line drawings, detailed photographs, and step by step instructions, Ms. Silverman provides an excellent overview of the mechanics of Tunisian Crochet to help the beginner; plus new stitch combinations and project patterns that will thrill the experienced crocheter. The 16 patterns include a wide range of projects: home decor, things for babies, clothing for adults and children; she even includes a felted purse.

My particular favorites were the Sweet Baby Dreams Blanket- which combines Front Crossed Simple Stitches with Knit Stitches to create wonderful texture; and the Frosted Stitch Afghan, which uses ‘Shells and Columns’ or what the Victorian’s called The Double Gobelin Stitch.

I truly appreciated the ‘extras’ that Ms. Silverman included: schematics with every clothing project, several pages of body sizing and general measurements for patterns, and a yarn weights table.

The drawbacks in the book are minor: the adult clothing patterns go only to a size Large (No Plus Sizes); and some of the stitch names she uses are different. Most Tunisian Crochet enthusiasts won’t find this a major issue, because we are accustomed to different names for stitches, and she clearly defines the mechanics for all of the stitches she uses. An example: the Tunisian Full Stitch (worked between the stitches) is what she calls the Net Stitch.

Ms. Silverman states that Tunisian Crochet is "designed more for the experienced crocheter," and that is the only statement that I took exception with. From my own experience teaching both classic crochet and Tunisian Crochet, Tunisian Crochet is much easier to learn and master. When I have students who struggle with classic crochet, I can put a long hook in their hands and in two hours they are happily stitching. So, if you find this book in a bookstore near you, and you don’t know how to do Tunisian Crochet, don’t be afraid to try. This book can get you started and provide you with enough projects to get you 'hooked.'

Read more about the book at Sharon's Site:
http://www.sharonsilverman.com/books.htm

Instructions for the Scrap-A-Nator

For a short, quick, easy Tunisian Crochet ALong (at our Yahoo Group), I'm offering the instructions to stitch your own Scrap-A-Nator- a pattern designed to use up scraps... so that nothing goes to waste. An Ultimate Yarn Recycling pattern.

At least, 2 pounds of Scrap yarn
6.5mm up to 10mm hook (US size K up to N)
The K sized hook makes a denser fabric better suited for a Bath Mat or Rug.
The larger hooks make a more fluid fabric well suited for a lap throw.

Dimensions will vary:
Size K hook 24-26" wide, the length is determined by you.
10mm Hook 30-32" wide by 40-44" long

Special Instructions:
++RETURN: Yo, pull through 2 loops. (Yo, pull through Connecting Chain and 1 loop off hook) Repeat instructions inside ( ) until there is 1 loop on hook.
This type of Return will help to make a more solid Return edge. On the Forward of each row, you must work into the Hidden Stitch beside the last stitch, or this will decrease one stitch on the Return Edge.

HIDING TAILS ON THE RETURN:
Since this uses scraps, there will be numerous knots and tails to hide. I’ve had good results by stitching these into the fabric on the Return.
Return up to the Knot. Lay the Tails over the yarn, moving towards the Hook hand. Yo, pull through the stitches. Lay the tails over the yarn, moving towards the Yarn hand. Yo, pull through the stitches. Repeat this process, laying the tails- back and forth- over the yarn until they are too small. Later, you can use a smaller hook to pull the remaining tails into the Connecting Chain stitches to secures them.

The Scrap-A-Nator using ARNie’s Favorite Stitch

Holding 2 strands of worsted weight yarn together, chain 66-76.
Row 1: Pick up loops in ea chain, using the Camels’ Hump on the back of the chain stitch. Return, using the Special Instructions above ++.
Row 2: (Tss, Tps) across row, including Hidden St. Work last st, and Return using the Special Instructions.
Row 3: Tss, (Yo, sk 1 st, Tks in next st) Repeat across row, ending with Tks, Tss in Hidden St, & last st. Return using special instructions.
Row 4: Tss, (Tfs in Yo Sp, Yo, Sk Tks) Repeat across row, ending with Yo, sk Tfs, Tss in Hidden St, & last st. Return using special instructions.
Row 5: Tss, (Yo, Sk Tfs, Tfs in Yo Sp) Repeat across row, ending with Tfs, Tss in Hidden St,& last st. Return using special instructions.
Repeat Rows 4 & 5 to create pattern and work to desired length.
Last Row: Tss,(Tfs in Yo Sps, Tks in Stitches.) Tss in Hidden St, last st. Return using Special instructions.
Bind Off Row: Single Crochet in each stitch. End off and finish hiding tails.

For photos, look at posts from earlier this week.
Pattern Copyrighted by Angela 'ARNie' G. 2009.
For copyright permissions, click here:
http://chezcrochet.com/page9.html

UFO CAL

For the last few weeks, our yahoo group has been doing an informal Crochet Along, where we worked on our individual UnFinished Objects.

The shawl is one of my UFOs, and is Tunisian Crochet Feather and Fan. I'll be working more on the instructions, and hope to publish it later this year. This shawl was made with Homespun in various shades/ombres of Gray and Tan.

The colorful blanket is another Scrap-A-Nator, but is 3 feet by 4 feet, instead of just a lap throw.

The Scrap-A-Nator

In the process of choosing which project I could work on, I found the blue and lavender lapthrow that was half finished.... I was fighting migraines again, so that project would be easy to stitch.

I finished it in 2 or 3 hours... so I started another one. Finished it and started another one... I think I have 5 of them now, in just over a week. A larger version is in another blog post this week.

These are roughly 30 inches wide and 42 inches long, based on dimension my local needlework group uses for their charity lapthrows to local nursing homes. These throws are worked holding two strands of yarn together, using a 10mm hook, and MY favorite stitch. http://chezcrochet.com/page18.html

I will be doing a short TCAL (Tunisian Crochet Along) with our yahoo group starting May 18; using this pattern. I will provide tips and tricks, as well as, detailed instructions, yarn requirements, etc. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tunisiancrochet/

The lap throw itself was an effort to use up a bunch of scraps and still have something visually appealing. Although I can't call this a Stash Buster, like the Stitch Diva's blanket, it does provide a great way of using up scraps.

Tess D'uberville Shawl- over view

There have been several interesting conversations about how to create a shawl seen in the BBC production of Tess of D'uberville.

That shawl was knitted, and since my knitting skills are rudementary at best... I never tried to knit it. I did look carefully at the photos and decided this could be done in TC, but put the project on the back burner.

Well, several days later someone asked this very same question: could this shawl be done in Tunisian Crochet... so I experimented with it and in only a few minutes had the answer.

First of all, the piece is a Mitered Corner Shawl in which the stitches run in the opposite direction of Mitered corner shawls that are more common place. It is this Stitch Direction that has caused all the commotion.

I could find no other way to duplicate this method, without first working a Square; then working the two Ends separately. Each end forms a Triangle that continues working rows of stitches from the square, but each row decreases along the top edge of the shawl.

Now, if you work all Tks, the stitch direction will look very similar to the more common triangle shawls. The opposite stitch directions will be more obvious with the Pronounced Ridges on the back of the piece.

You can work alternating rows of Tks/Tps (like in my sample), although with the Pronounced Ridge on back, you don't have to.

My instructions (in the next post) are written in such a way that you can insert any stitch you prefer, to create a shawl of your very own.

Check back here, or at my site: ChezCrochet.com for upcoming pattern booklets where I will offer variations on this shawl, with detailed stitching instructions.

These instructions and Schematics are Copyrighted by Angela 'ARNie' Grabowski 2009

Tess D'uberville Shawl

A. Ch 3.
Row 1: Forward- Yo, pick up a stitch, Yo, pick up last st. Return.
Row 2: Forward- Tfs- in Yo Sp, Yo, Tks, Yo, Tfs-in Yo Sp, last st. Return.
Row 3: Forward- 1 St. Yo, Tks, Yo, 1 St, last st. Return.
Row 4: Forward- Work chosen stitches up side, Tfs-in Yo Sp, Tks, Tfs-in Yo Sp, then work chosen stitches down the other side. Return.

Repeat Row 4 to create length.

B. These instructions create a Mitered corner square, as seen by the white lines.

C1. Once the Diagonal measurement of the square equals the length of the shawl (from your neck down). Stitch Up this side up to the 1st Yo Sp. Return.
Subsequent Rows: Stitch up side to last 3 sts. Tss2tog, last st. Return.

C2. When you have only 1 loop remaining- DO NOT END OFF. Remove the hook and put a Work In Progress (WIP) Clip into the loop. This can be a paper clip, pinch style clothes pin, a file clip (bull dog clip.)

D. Attach a new ball of yarn into the empty Yo Sp.
Stitch down this side and Return.
Next Row: Stitch normally- following your chosen stitch pattern. Return as you normally would until you have 2 stitches left (3 loops.) Yo, pull through all 3 loops (Decrease made- Dec).
Subsequent Rows: Ignore the Stitches within the Dec. Stitch down side. Return following instructions in previous row.
When there is only 1 loop left, End off.

E. Go back to other End, and removed Wip Clip. Insert hook and work classic crochet Single Crochet stitches or Slip Stitches across the top edge of the shawl.

Peaches & Creme Yarn in Tunisian Crochet

A member of my Yahoo group and Ravelry was asking about TC with Peaches and Creme... a worsted/aran weight cotton yarn.

This is one project I used TC with a lacy open stitch Arrowhead Netting.

The pattern for this blanket is in the booklet: Arrowhead Netting, that includes instructions for one method for creating Round objects.

You can order the book here:

http://chezcrochet.com/page92.html

You can see Arrowhead Netting instructions here:

http://chezcrochet.com/page18.html

TCAL Inspiration

I will be doing a Tunisian Crochet A-Long (TCAL) through my Yahoo group starting January 18, 2009.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/tunisiancrochet/

This is the inspiration for the upcoming piece.

It is a Knitted Sweater pattern produced by the Reynolds Yarn Co, Townsend, Massachuesetts, 2004. The title of the pattern is Rapture #82287.

Now, my piece will be done in Tunisian Crochet, and will look much different, since I will be using different stitch combinations and adding some cables to the design....

However, this is my inspiration for the TCAL.

The TCAL will be designed so that you can create a piece to fit your needs, using yarn from your stash.

I will be creating a piece that will eventually become the back for a sweater coat similar to this sweater.

Tunisian Crochet Dishrag or Washcloth

A conversation on crocheted dishcloths came up again the other day, and I thought I should share mine. Since it is so super easy, I'm posting it here.

You can find stitch instructions here at my site:
http://chezcrochet.com/page17.html

Tss & Tps (K&A Purl) Washcloth

I used an old worsted weight yarn that was really scratchy for the sample. I've also used Aunt Lydia's Rug yarn with great results.

Your yarn and hook choice will affect the overall size, but I use an L or 8mm hook for these.

Ch 20.

Row 1: Forward- Pick up loops in ea ch st across row. Return, Drop Loops off as you normally would.
Row 2: Forward- Tss in ea st, work last st as you normally would. Return.
Row 3: Forward- Tps in ea st, work last st as you normally would. Return.
Repeat Rows 2 & 3 to desired length... sample has 15 rows.
Last Row: work Sc or sl st in ea st across row. End off and weave threads.

For copyright permissions, click here:
http://chezcrochet.com/page9.html

Crossed Tss, or Diagonal Plait stitches from history

Some of my friends at the 'tunisiancrochet' group at Yahoo, were trying to understand some stitches found in various places. The stitches in question were originally published in1886 by Therese de Dillmont in her massive book: The Encyclopedia of Needlework.

Rebecca Jones included these stitches in her book: Tricot Crochet-The Complete Book (Lacis Publications 2000).

Both of these books contained instructions that were vague and difficult to understand, but I have generated more modern instructions.

Front Crossed Tunisian Simple stitch- FXTss this offers instructions on the easier stitch to understand- what Ms. deDillmont called Straight Plaited Tunisian Crochet. Scroll to bottom of the page.

Giving the Diagonal Plait stitch a more modern name... would be Diagonal FXTss. My modern isntructions for this stitch are:

Row 1: Forward and Return- Pick Up loops in each chain and Drop Off as you normally would.

Row 2: Forward- ignore outer loop. Tss in 1st st. *Sk 1 st. Tss in next st. Cross in front of st just formed and Tss in skipped st. Repeat from * across row, work last st as you normally would. Return as you would for any TC st.

Row 3: Forward- ignore outer loop. *Sk 1 St. Tss in next st. Cross in front of st just formed and Tss in skipped st. Repeat from * across row. If needed, work Tss in next to last st and work last st as you normally would. Return as you would for any TC st.

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to create pattern.

General Notes:

If working with Odd numbered stitches, you will have 1 Tss to begin Even Number Rows, and 1 Tss to end all the Odd numbered Rows.

If working with Even numberd stitches, you will have 1 Tss to Begin and End all the Even Numbered Rows; but no extra Tss on the Odd numbered rows.

Photo was taken from The Complete DMC Encyclopedia of Needlework, page 297 - Running Press, Philadelphia, Penn. 1978. This is a reproduction of the original book.

What uses more yarn?

I recently was directed to a blog that had an experiment to 'scientifically' determine which needlework style uses more yarn: Knitting, Classic Crochet, or Tunisian Crochet.

The blogger's group of friends stitched several swatches with worsted weight yarn, and 6mm sized tools. Their conculsions were that Knitting and Crochet used about the same, but TC used significantly more yarn.

I believe the experiment was flawed for the following reasons:

To accurately compare the yarn usage, an experiement should create comparable fabrics; consequentially, the swatches must stitched using different tool sizes for the various needleworks. Eva O. did this when she was at Bella Online, but that experiment was pulled offline when she left. Eva's results reflected my own, and what many TC stitchers in the industry have experienced: Classic Crochet uses the most yarn, Tunisian Crochet uses slightly less than Knitting.

Actual yarn amounts are extremely varied depending on individual tension and gauge, so saying that Knitting uses 3 times or 1/3 less yarn is grossly over stating the facts... unless the yarn useage was determined by crocheting the piece with a hook size that is appropriate for knitting needles and way too small for crochet.

Mechanics dictate that Knitting will use less yarn, because all of the stitches are interconnected to one another. The extra steps in forming stitches of Classic Crochet and Tunisian Crochet dictate that they will use more yarn. How much more is determined by individual tension, gauge, size of hook/needle, etc.

Using larger hooks for Tunisian Crochet will actually lessen the amount of yarn you use, because it loosens up the stitches to create a fabric closer to Knitting and Classic Crochet accomplish with smaller tools.

Trying to use one size of tool for all the various needlework styles will create different fabrics: a J sized hook with worsted weight yarn would be much too loose for most crocheters, same with the 6mm needles. A J sized hook with Tunisian Crochet will create a fabric so dense you could use it for a rug... if you could control the curl.

In other words, the 6mm hook is a one size too big for what most stitchers use for classic crochet, and it may be up to 2 sizes too big for what most yarn lables recommend for knitting. For Tunisian Crochet, that 6mm hook is two to three sizes too small.

All of these will skew the final results, because the appropriate sized stitching tool wasn't used for each style of needlework.

I would be interested in seeing what results her group gets when they use the size of tool that is more appropriate for the worsted weight yarn...

Such as.... a 5.5mm (size I) hook with classic crochet; 5mm needles with knitting and an 8mm hook with Tunisian Crochet.

http://thing4string.blogspot.com/2007_01_01_archive.html Scroll down for Unraveling the Truth, to see the whole blogpost.

Entrelac with Texture

This is the photo shot with a flash to more accurately illustrate the aran color of the piece.

Entrelac with Texture

The Yahoo group I own with Kim Guzman was discussing Entrelac... again...
And I suggested that they try working each block with a different stitch.

This is a sample of what I've done with Tunisian Crochet Entrelac and Textured stitching.

This photo is underexposed, to highlight the texture.